Castles in Cheshire

 

Cheshire has an interesting collection of castles and stately homes that are well worth making a point of visiting.  The following article features some of the best known, and outlines their development and major milestones in their history

 

 

Chester Castle

 

 

 

Castles come and castles go.  But some also change in to something rather different.

 

As far as Chester Castle is concerned its front facade is nothing like the stone built motte, bailey, towers and ramparts that were constructed during the time of the Normans and Plantagenets.

 

Beginning life as a wooden structure, three years after the Battle of Hastings and the subsequent ‘harrying of the north’ in 1069 - no the locals wouldn’t acquiesce quietly, Chester became one of the very last towns to fall to William the Conqueror. 

 

It then came under the oppressive control of a series of rather brutish earls such as Hugh of Avranches, also known as Hugh Lupus and Ranulf, but later was bequeathed to the crown when the last of these Norman earls died without issue (without any heirs).

 

It did not take on something of an impressive form until it was used as a stronghold in the mid 13th century by Edward 1 for his campaigns in Wales.

 

He strengthened the outer bailey with a huge stone wall, and used it as a major military base to accomplish the conquering of the principality and its people.

 

But, visitors today would be surprised to see that very little of the erstwhile structure has survived, as they have in many of Edward’s other famous castles, such as Carnaervon, Conwy and Harlech.

 

Those making a journey to tour its grounds now, would be stunned to see something of a neo-classical collection of buildings that were completed in the early part of the 19th century.

 

In fact people could be forgiven for thinking they’d taken a wrong turning and come to the steps of the British Museum in London or St George’s Hall in Liverpool.

 

But the reason for such changes lie directly in the castle’s colourful and varied past.

 

Suffice to say, the changes, in part, were brought about after the stone castle was damaged very badly during the Civil War between September 1644 to February 1645.

 

Oliver Cromwell was determined after his six month siege of Chester that castles such as this could never be used as instruments of war in any significant number again.

 

Many of its walls and ramparts had been badly bombarded by cannon fire and were in desperate need of repair. It had, in its hey day, a similar look to say a castle at  Caernaevon or Harlech.

 

And since its foundation, Chester Castle had been a centre of administration, court,  gaol, exchequer and accommodation for visiting royalty.

 

Towards the end of the 17th century it also had the honour of becoming a royal mint. During the ‘Great Re-coinage’, respected astronomer Edmund Halley (of Halley’s Comet fame) was appointed as president of the said mint in Chester.

 

This move had been deemed necessary because of the rampant clipping of coins in general circulation.  This practice let its devotees gather sizeable amounts of precious metal by slicing off small pieces from the said coins.  However, the shillings etc, over time, became almost unusable as a result.

 

The decision to choose Chester, over Hereford as a mint was greeted with great joy by the people of the day, and there were many celebrations and bonfires.

 

Today, however, what remains of the original Norman castle, such as the Agricola Tower and Chapel of St Mary de Castro, is now hidden behind massive neo-classical structures.  (These were part of renovations commissioned by Chester’s local government during the 18th and 19th centuries).

 

The chapel, at the top of the tower, has the remains of many impressive, medieval wall paintings.  Among them are depictions of miracles performed by the Virgin Mary - such as her salvation of the priest, Theophilus, who had sold his soul to the devil.

 

The 18th century renovations were set in motion when it was decided Chester needed a humane and reconditioned gaol.  Some fire damage to the castle complex also precipitated the decision according to English Heritage.

 

Fundamentally, however, the city leaders were swept along with the reformist thinking of the time, and felt the castle grounds would be a more than ideal location for a new gaol.

 

It had, in any event, held anything up to 100 men and women in the past. But because of the terrible conditions, people often succumbed to typhus and or gaol fever, (went mad), as they lay in chains waiting to either be freed or executed at nearby Boughton.

 

A competition was held in 1785 with a prize of 50 guineas to see who could put forward the best ideas and design.  York-born Thomas Harrison impressed the judging panel with his proposals to provide ample ‘security, separation and ventilation’.

 

Prisoners were no longer to be held in an enclosed airless yard, but were to have dry, airy cells so there were less health risks and better conditions overall.

 

So pleased were the city fathers with Harrison’s completed gaol (in 1792), that he was asked to do a further series of works.  His new commissions included the rebuilding the original Shire Hall, remodelling the azize court and adding a new barracks and armoury.

 

These buildings, all in neo-classical style, went far beyond the medieval castle grounds.  It was felt a new gateway, similar to that found at the Acropolis in Athens, would provide a fittingly palatial frontage.

 

The work took several decades to finish, and the Doric columns at this opulent entrance way were not fully in place until 1822.

 

Today, however, the renovated buildings have had their usage changed to some extent.  The gaol is no more, however, the Crown Court regularly sits here to judge criminal cases.

 

And the local council also makes use of the Shire Hall for some of its meetings.

 

However, in place of the barracks and armoury, a small military museum has been established.  It charts the history of Cheshire’s local regiments from the 17th century right up until the present day.

 

One of the most interesting artefacts is a snuff box which belonged to one Admiral Lord Nelson.  It wasn’t donated or bequeathed, but was rather found by accident when repairs were carried out on some of the assize court’s Doric columns (in 1922).

 

Admission to what remains of the original castle is free.  And it is open year round from 10.00am - 5.00pm in spring and summer, and 10.00am - 4.00pm in autumn and winter.

 

If people actually want to get a better idea of what the original stone castle may have looked like, then they should actually walk around the outside of the castle complex to Castle Drive and take a look at the sandstone walls and battlements.  These too, however, over the course of the centuries have been repaired and modified.  But the stonework and design is perhaps truer to the original 13th century castle structure.

 

And to find out more about the military museum go to the following website:  www.chester.ac.uk/militarymuseum

 

 

Peckforton Castle

 

 

 

As the old saying goes: ‘An Englishman’s home is his castle’.  And for some people when building a new home, nothing less than a castle will do.

 

And this was certainly the case for 19th century philanthropist and wealthy land-owner, John Tollemache.  With ancestral connections to the Wilbrahams of Woodhey Hall, he decided to commission well-respected, Victorian architect Anthony Salvin to design him a new manor house.   However, it was to be no neo-classical or gothic-style reconstruction.

 

Rather Lord Tollemache, as he became later known, favoured a castle in the style of Edward I, complete with portcullis, motte and bailey.

 

To see his dream come to fruition, Tollemache bought around 35,000 acres of land in Cheshire which included the villages of Peckforton and Beeston in 1840.

 

The castle, when the final design was approved, was built in red sandstone over the course of six years from 1844 onwards. 

 

Expertly arranged around a circular courtyard, it had a main keep in a distorted rectangular-style lay-out.  A massive, circular tower took pride of place at the back of this main range.  And smaller square and circular towers adorned its outer edges.  Turrets neatly edged the roof and three smaller satellite buildings were also placed evenly around the central courtyard.

 

Thick, verdant woodland was allowed to grow around the castle grounds and ¾ mile long driveway was installed from the main gatehouse. Stables, a chapel, coach house, grain store and bakery also made up the rest of the outlying buildings.

 

In the mould of many wealthy aristocrats of the time, Lord Tollemache, was also keen that his workers would share in his fortune and prosperity. 

 

To bring this about, he renovated or built  at least 100 farmhouses or cottages to house his loyal workforce.  Each was also given at least 3 acres of land as part of the package.

 

The Tollemaches and their descendants lived comfortably at this private estate until the outbreak of the Second World War.  The last of the Peckforton residents, Bently Tollemache retired to Eastbourne and the castle was used as a home for evacuated, disabled children during the war.

 

It was rented out periodically until 1988, when it was bought by a hotelier and turned in to a country house hotel and wedding venue.

 

Since that time, it’s also appealed to film-makers in both Britain and abroad.  Kevin Costner used it for some scenes in his 1991 film, Robin Hood, Prince of Thieves; and it has also used it as a backdrop for an episode of science fiction series, Dr Who.

 

Today the castle does not open its doors to the general public as a tourist attraction in its own right.  But the average visitor can either sample some delicious fare in its Victorian style, 1851 restaurant - or indeed join in one of the many medieval banquets held here, replete with jesters, troubadours and staff in courtly dress.

 

Certain special events are also held throughout the year. The castle also acts as an ideal location for weddings, private parties and corporate functions.

 

To find out more, visit the castle’s website on www.peckfortoncastle.co.uk

Address: Peckforton Castle, Stone House Lane, Peckforton, Tarporley, Cheshire CW6 9TN   Tel: 01829 260930

 

 

Cholmondeley Castle

 

 

 

It is perhaps a quintessentially British phenomenon that words are not pronounced as they would first seem.

 

Take Derby and Berkeley, to name but two - only the Americans pronounce them as they are written.

 

But perhaps the erstwhile scholars who decided on English grammar form, felt such idiosyncrasies would only enrich the language, and if nothing else catch out the unwary.

 

And indeed those heading to Cholmondeley, need to make sure they’re not misunderstood if they ever need to ask for directions.

 

‘Chumley’ as the castle is commonly known was built at the turn of the 19th century by the 1st Marquess of Cholmondeley.

 

Tracing his ancestry back to the Norman barons, his forebears lived in this area since the 12th century.

 

Many members of the dynasty had served as members of parliament for Cheshire, or had taken the title of Sheriff. 

A half brick and timber house had been built in 1571. However, the present gothic-style building was constructed in its place at the new Marquess’ behest.  (Previous Cholmondeleys had been known as the Earl of Leinster, among other titles).

 

The architect Robert Smirke add the turrets and towers seen today in 1817 to give the current building more a traditional castle-like appearance.

 

Today the mother of the 7th Marquess, Lavinia, lives at the house that is more than 200 years old, and has, over the last 40 years, overseen the opening up of the castle grounds to the general public.

 

Since the 60s the already impressive gardens were re-landscaped and planted with an amazing array of flowers, plants and shrubs.

 

Visitors are unfortunately not allowed to tour the actual castle itself.  However, it does provide the perfect backdrop to the surrounding 500 acres that include row upon row of flowers such as azaleas, camellias, magnolias, orchids, and trees such as Cedars of Lebanon, oaks and sweet chestnuts.

 

 

 

 

Perhaps the best known part of the grounds is the Temple Garden, which contains a Romanesque style temple.  With four thin columns and domed roof, it sits on a small island near the centre of a sizeable lake.

 

Other miniature islands dot the lake and are joined to dry land via mini wooden bridgeways. Koi carp also fill the waters, and perhaps seem all the more impressive because of their mammoth size.

 

Other attractions to watch out for are the abundance of wildlife, which include some exotic breeds, such as South American llamas and African pygmy goats.  There are also Shetland ponies and an array of pigs and sheep, among the growing menagerie of animals.

 

With designated picnic areas, a tea room and a farm shop, there is also plenty for those in need of a bite to eat.

 

The current Marchioness hosts a spectacular calendar of special events, that include country fairs, firework displays and a wide variety of musical concerts.

 

The grounds are only open three days a week from 1st April until 30th October in any given year.  More specifically, it is open on a Wednesday, Thursday and Sunday in addition to bank holidays.  The doors open at 11.30am and close at 5.00pm.

 

For more information go to the following websites: www.destinations.uk.com

or www.shopshiretourism.info/attractiondetail.cfm?EstID=445

 

Address: Cholmondeley Castle Gardens, Malpas, Cholmondeley, Whitchurch, Cheshire SY14 8AH   Tel: 01829 720383

 

Beeston Castle

 

 

 

There is hidden treasure at Beeston so the story goes that was left here in 1399 by Richard II on his way to quell an uprising in Ireland.

 

These untold riches, which would perhaps be worth millions of pounds today, were said to include the king’s personal fortune of 100,000 marks (in gold coins) and other precious objects said to also be worth a similar sum.

 

Legend has it that the treasure was hidden in passages running off the 370 foot deep castle well inside the inner bailey or enclosure. 

 

Modern attempts to probe the well using sophisticated electronic equipment has uncovered three hidden passages, but found no treasure.  However, some experts like to believe there may still be a fourth.

 

Many historians, however, are convinced that Henry Bolingbroke, Duke of Lancaster, actually requisitioned these riches when he stripped Richard of his throne during that year.

 

Unfortunately, for Richard, throughout his 22 year reign, he never quite managed to rule peaceably with the coterie of barons that made up his small parliament.

 

When he executed and took the lands of some of his enemies, he set a precedent that ensured a deep hatred festered among his opponents.

 

While in Ireland, Henry Bolingbroke, came to Yorkshire to claim lands his father had been forced to forfeit.  However, he became the figurehead for a  revolt against the king, his oppressive taxes and autocratic style of ruling.

 

Leading noblemen urged Henry to take the crown as well as his father’s confiscated property.  And this he did in 1400 when he became Henry IV and had Richard incarcerated at Pontefract Castle where he died in a little under four months.

 

It was speculated his death could have been by starvation or at the hands of some of Henry’s henchmen.  No records have ever been found to show the true cause.

 

There had  also been little popular support for King Richard among his subjects.  Britain was still reeling from the aftershock of the Black Death which had literally halved the population in the first half of the 14th century.

 

The merciless quelling of the Peasants’ Revolt at the beginning of Richard’s reign (when he was only 14) and stringent laws that held down wages were also not easily forgotten or forgiven. A series of poll taxes that charged people equally, regardless of their circumstances, again ensured that the king was not respected or revered.

 

In spite of his own series of tragedies, Beeston had actually passed to the crown during the reign of Richard’s maternal great-great-grandfather Henry III.

 

Henry had used it as a major military outpost in his campaigns to conquer all of Wales.

 

However, the actual castle was built by one of his contemporaries, Ranulf, 4th Earl of Chester and dates back to 1226.

 

Built in on a red sandstone craggy outcrop that reaches 500ft high, the castle was to be a major military show piece for the earl - to complement his other fortifications in nearby Chester.

 

A direct descendant of the original Norman barons, he had very much wanted Beeston to be created as an homage to Saracen castles he had seen during the 5th Crusade in Syria.

 

Perhaps what made it technologically advanced for the period was that it was designed so its occupants could see off any intruders or invaders as efficiently and expertly as possible.

 

 

 

 

The vast D shaped towers and narrow gateway, and a huge defensive ditch around the inner bailed ensured that the chances of taking the castle were much reduced.  A storm of arrows could be launched from the D-shaped towers near to the gateway to repel any would-be insurgents. And the thick walls and a huge outer enclosure on the lower slopes were also designed to limit the chances of a successful attack.

 

However, as the building works progressed, the earl unfortunately died. The castle was then inherited by his son, John, who also died within a relatively short period of time aswell.

 

It was at this time that the castle passed to the crown and the title the Earl of Chester was given to the king’s eldest son, and heir to the throne.

 

Because the castle was unfinished, no living quarters or main keep or tower were ever built.  And in the 13th and 14th century, it became a military base for subsequent British kings.

 

By the middle of the 14th century, however, and just before Richard II came to power, the castle was actually sold to local Cheshire knight, Sir Hugh Beeston.  However, it obviously received royal visitors as and when this was required.

 

It wasn’t, however, until the outbreak of the Civil War in the 17th century that the castle’s fortunes took an irreversible turn for the worst.

Taken by Parliamentarian forces when most of Cheshire declared for the king (Charles I), it took only eight Royalists to scale the castle ramparts and  force the 60-strong Roundhead force from them.

 

However, the Roundheads were determined that they should not be easily defeated, and steadfastly besieged the castle for over a year.

 

Eventually, however with starvation imminent, the small occupying force agreed to surrender in the November of 1645.

 

At the end the Civil, and under General Cromwell’s orders, great sections of the castle walls were toppled so it could never again be easily used to prop up any monarch.

 

The castle was just left to stand as a ruin. In the mid-19th century however, it started to become a tourist attraction in its own right.

 

 

 

 

Perhaps Richard II’s treasure will never be found, at this Castle on the Rock, if indeed it is still there.  But perhaps the real treasures to be found here are the castle itself and its stunning views - which can stretch to at least eight counties on a clear day.

 

Address: Beeston Castle and Caves, Tarporley, Cheshire CW6 9TX   Tel: 01829 260464.

 

Location: 11m SE of Chester off A49 or A41.

 

Visitors should also note that a small museum can be found in the renovated nineteenth century gatehouse at the bottom of the castle’s hill.  It charts the history of the entire site, which was occupied from the Neolithic period onwards.