NANTWICH - ONE OF CHESHIRE'S FINEST TOWNS

The pretty market town of Nantwich has been ravaged throughout history by fire, plagues and invading marauders, that it's perhaps some kind of miracle that it has survived in its present form at all. Its bustling, heritage-laden streets are an undoubted pleasure to walk around and give little or no indication of its troubled and turbulent past.

Nantwich nearly destroyed

Without prior knowledge, it would be hard to believe that it was once levelled by William the Conqueror and soldiers during his infamous harrying of the north - or to discern it was nearly destroyed again by a 'Great Fire' in 1583. Thanks to the great generosity of Queen Elizabeth I, who recognised the town's importance as a major salt producer, Nantwich was completely rebuilt after the fire, and fortunately for visitors most of these structures have survived today. (Queen Elizabeth donated a significant sum of £2,000 (equivalent to a few million today) from her treasury to go towards the £30,000 rebuilding costs)

As you walk along the High Street in the 21st century, these original Tudor buildings, have certainly stood the test of time and are perhaps an enduring testament to the genius of the architects and artisans that made them.

No-one could doubt their authenticity as they artfully curve out from their foundations. Their slight imperfections of the timber framed buildings and lack of strictly aligned walls perhaps only add to their character.

Second only to Chester with its wealth of listed buildings (almost 100 at the last count), Nantwich has perhaps had a lower profile nationally than it should merit. But nonetheless, its history should in all actuality place it among the most intriguing and diverse of Britain's market towns.

Although its appearance today is largely Elizabethan, interspersed with a generous helping of Victorian redbrick and neo-classical Georgian buildings, the town actually dates back to the time of the Romans.

It was chosen as a vicus or area of special importance because of its natural profusion of salt or brine springs - that were found close to the town's central river, the River Weaver.

Salt has not only been important in Nantwich's overall economy, but also in producing its name. It was known as Wich in Edward the Confessor's time, which is thought to have derived from the Roman vicus or place of importance. Nantwich was a major salt producing site during their occupation of Britain. Interestingly it was worth supposedly £21 in Edward's time, and £2 after the harrying of the north.

The town was also known as Warmundestrou by the Saxons or Hallath Wen or White Salt Pit by the Welsh who were eager to wrest back control of the town from the invading Germanic tribes - and led out several attacks on the town throughout the Dark and Middle Ages.

In Norman Britain, Nantwich became Wich Malbedeng or Malbank's Place, in honour of one of the feudal lords who owned it at the time. This changed to Nantwych in the 16th century, Namptwych in the 18th and Nantwich in more modern times. In Norman times, 450 residents were counted within the bounds of the town, while in 2001 the general census revealed that well over 12,000 people lived there today.

As the salt industry declined in the 18th and 19th centuries, the town became well known for its leather and tanning industry, which led to many artisan producers of shoes and gloves. When factories began to spring up with the advent of steam power in the middle of the 19th century , this did away with many of the home-based workers and outlying cottage industries, and after this time agriculture, farming and tourism became the town's major income producing base.

Today, there are over 250 specialist shops in the town, which help give its unique and original character. It is also renowned for its cheese fair, agricultural show and its food and drink festival.

Salt was highly prized in ancient times and was used not only as a preservative, food seasoning, but also as a currency. And recent excavations in 2002 and 2003 proved just how important Nantwich was a salt producing town during the 400 year Roman occupation of Britain.

It was thought that garrisons at the major Roman citadel of Chester or Deva were some of the main beneficiaries of these salt supplies, in addition to others posted in Staffordshire.

The Wilbrahams and Nantwich

Interestingly at the time of the Domesday national audit, which was instigated by William the Conqueror in 1086, the town was recorded as having 8 salt houses, and this was seen as a quite a number for the time. But by the 16th and 17th centuries this figure had rocketed to 216, and contributed to the wealth of some of the town's leading families, not least of whom where the Wilbrahams.

Substantial land-owner Richard Wilbraham was recorded as having 12 salthouses in the year 1575, in addition to many other properties throughout Nantwich and Cheshire.

As long-standing owners of Woodhey Hall at Faddiley (now our farm and holiday complex), the Wilbraham clan had settled in and around Nantwich not long after the Norman conquests. The assorted family members also held many senior county posts down the centuries such as members of parliament and sheriff. They were mostly titled and Thomas Wilbraham of Woodhey was a baronet.

Within the town precincts today there are still remnants of the great family's philanthropic gestures and works. Among the assorted bookshops and specialist food shops, are the remnants of six almshouses, built in 1675 by a Roger Wilbraham. He felt moved to provide housing for local widows after his own two sons and wife died during that year, all on the same day.

Today Curshaw's Cheshire Cat (bar and restaurant www.curshaws.com) now replaces the buildings in Welsh Row, but a plaque commemorates their construction, which at the time was seen as a great step forward in local welfare for the town's womenfolk. The Wilbrahams were also involved in building further almshouses for men, a school, a new bridge over the River Weaver and a public house in the town centre is also named after them.

Interestingly, the Wilbrahams kept a comprehensive chronicle of their lives for more than 200 years from the Tudor period onwards, and copious artefacts and papers from the time can be found at Nantwich Museum in Pillory Street.

Pillory Street as the name suggests was actually were public punishment and humiliation was heaped on criminals and those who had fallen foul of the law. This could range from several lashes of the whip while strapped to a cart to being dunked in the town's cesspit!

Echoes and whispers of the past, however, are infused into practically all the buildings that currently fan out from Nantwich's town square and high street. All buildings adhere to a strict architectural code, so that the historical elements are left firmly in tact.

Buildings societies, banks, newsagents and book shops, are interspersed with family-run cafes, outstanding restaurants and food shops in addition to a range of amazing outlets that stock anything and everything from fine wines to antiques.

An excellent example of one of the post-fire Tudor buildings is the current Nantwich Bookshop and Coffee Lounge at 46 High Street, which is 'jettied' (the top story overhangs the bottom storey) at the front and side, and contains original panelling and a plasterwork ceiling on the first floor.

Another spectacular landmark in the town centre is the Castle Hotel on the street of the same name (Castle Street). Built in 1585, shortly after the fire, it has been a coaching inn for the town for much of that time, and had a coach driver during the 19th century that was the grandfather of horse-racing sensation, Lester Piggot.

Today it's the annual home of Nantwich's springtime Blues and Jazz Festival and also has live music most lunchtimes and evenings.

St Mary's Church

While walking through Nantwich, people should not miss the opportunity to take a tour of St Mary's Church which was built mostly from 1380 onwards on the site of an existing chapel.

Initially under the control of a group of Cistercian monks, who were based at Combermere Abbey, a lavish amount of money was spent on the construction which was finished in the Decorated and Perpendicular style.

Sometimes called the Cathedral of South Cheshire, the centre of the church also contains a dedication to ancient Celtic pagan god, the Green Man. This came about, so it's believed, because the church was built on woodland; and because the god was said to live in an oak tree, it was seen as a move to appease him.

Striking features to look out for are the depictions of the Virgin Mary's life in the chancel, and also the engravings or misericords that were carved underneath the choir stalls at the front of the church.

After the Great Fire in 1583, the church was used as a refuge for the significant number made homeless, and it was also used surprisingly as a prison by the Parliamentarians during the travails of the Civil War (and the Crown Hotel was comandeered as a place of worship).

At that time in the mid 17th century, all of Cheshire had come out firmly on the side of the king, (Charles I), while Nantwich went against the grain and the majority were fervent supporters of the Parliamentarians' cause.

The Wilbraham family, and especially those at Woodhey were not among the Roundhead's champions and Thomas and Elizabeth Wilbraham actually fled their home in a bid to escape Oliver Cromwell's clutches (for which they were find very heavily later, please see our section on the history of Woodhey Hall).

During the Battle of Nantwich in early 1644, Cromwell was actually said to have used one of the barns at Woodhey, now Cromwell's manor in honour of his stay, as his temporary headquarters.

The battle site, which involved a 6 week siege, was close to Dorfold Hall, which is a quarter of a mile outside the town, and every last Saturday of January, the Sealed Knot group of re-enactors, stage a mock battle to commemorate the Parliamentarian's victory there (which came on 25 January 1644). Afterwards townsfolk wore a sprig of holly in their hair or hats, and it has since become known as Holly Holy Day.

Nantwich Today

Nantwich today has put its chaotic and turbulent history firmly to rest, and in the 20th century it has reinvented itself as a rural market town as much famed for its fresh, wholesome produce as it is for its major food fairs and festivals.

Principal among the fairs is the Nantwich Food and Drink Festival which typically takes place over three days at the end of September. (This year it will be held from Friday 25 to Sunday 27 September 2009).

Small independent producers tend to exhibit in the main, and exotic meats such as wild boar, ostrich and buffalo can be bought here in addition to a recently legalised drink, Celtic Poteen.

Poteen was an illicit 'moonshine' drink made from root vegetables by people, that became illegal as soon as alcohol licensing was introduced.

Legalised by the EU in the mid 1990s, the Celtic Spirit company now attractively bottles this brew for people to sample as and when the mood takes them. It has been making alcoholic spirits from old Welsh family recipes since 1870 and miniatures or large 5 litre consignments of spirits such as its Black Mountain Liqueur which contains apple and blackcurrant, or its Keeper‘s Tipple, an aromatic whinberry whisky liqueur - are well worth trying. Visit http://kolvox7.motionpixels.net/php/products.php?id=4 to find out more.

Those with a sweet tooth will literally be overwhelmed by all the delicious selection of ice cream, sweets, chocolate and cakes that can be found among the exhibitors across the three days.

One leading ice cream-maker, Snugbury's based in the village of Hurleston, northwest of Nantwich, will be taking pride of place at the show, and has proved so popular locally that it even has its own appreciation society webpage on Facebook.

The extensive range of flavours includes such tempting creations as Strawberry Cheesecake, Pecan and Fudge, Damson and Sloe Gin and the popular Death by Chocolate! They're definitely worth making a beeline for during the time of the festival. For more details, please go to their website at www.snugburys.co.uk.

Another excellent ice cream maker, in the form of Cheshire Farm's Real Dairy Ice Cream, will also be among the many exhibitors. When milk quotas were introduced in the 70s, these erstwhile dairy farmers, decided to use the excess milk to make ice cream, and since that time they've never looked back.

Their ice cream factory has been added to over the years with a shop, cafe, children's playground and small zoo of exotic animals, and the company's ice cream can be found at many retail outlets throughout the north west. Go to www.cheshirefarmicecream.co.uk for more comprehensive details.

The food and drink festival is obviously a great excuse to put off all diets till tomorrow, and then some! and the Chocolate Dreams chocolate fountain and dips should prove to be great excuse for a little self-indulgence. High quality Belgian chocolate, will pour in a constant stream down its sizeable chocolate fountain, and people can have their pick of luxurious and exotic dips to savour with the chocolate. (Their website can be found at www.cheshirechocolatedreams.com - they typically cater for parties, weddings, festivals or fairs and corporate events)

The festival is not only about a wide array of food, and those more interested in drink need not feel in any way short-changed by the selection of wines, spirits and ales that will be on offer throughout the three-day event.

The Campaign for Real Ale (Camra) will have a special area devoted to specialist beers and brews and should be a must-see for visitors. There will also be a generous amount of wine tasting sessions and now whisky sampling seminars, courtesy of Spencerfield Spirit Company of Inverkeithing in Fife. They say they've recently rescued two whiskies from oblivion, namely Sheep Dip Malt Whisky and Pigs Nose Blended Whisky. They're meant to taste much better than they sound!

There's not enough time and space to least the scores and scores of exhibitors and attractions that will be on offer during the festival's three days. However, intriguing ones to look out for are the Pudding Shop stand, run by a husband and wife team from Worcester. All kinds of traditional steamed puddings are on offer, from the Christmas variety to lemon and lime and chocolate flavours (see the www.puddingshop.co.uk website). So why not stock up for Christmas.

And people should perhaps make a point of visiting the Garlic Farm's stall, who are based on the Isle of Wight. They produce natural garlic and other related products and are said to be one of the leading specialists in their field in Europe (website: www.thegarlicfarm.co.uk)

And finally people might like to try exceptional cheese from Snowdonia (www.snowdonia-cheese.co.uk), delicious hand-made fudge from Lancashire (www.rolysfudge.co.uk) or English haggis from Brown's Butchers, Chorley (www.brownsthebutchers.co.uk).

The festival definitely tries to put the fun back into food shopping, and has literally masses of products that would rarely be found on the average high street or supermarket. So why not head along there this autumn and just how broad-ranging and diverse British food can prove to be. To find out more about the festival, please go to the following website: www.nantwichfoodfestival.co.uk. There will also be a cookery demonstration theatre with demos by celebrity chefs, a gourmet food marquee, wild food workshops and foraging walks, a Victorian-themed Sunday and a farmers' market. The main festival site will however be at Mill Island in the town centre. So why not make Woodhey Hall your base while you sample some outstanding food and drink at this top-rated event. To find out more about booking and availability, please ring Ruth Robinson on 01270 524 215.

Other things to see and do in and around Nantwich

Canal
Nantwich

The Shropshire Union Canal runs along the length of Nantwich, and stretches from Bromsgrove in Worcestershire right up to Ellesmere Port and the Mersey basin. Canal boats can be hired for the day at the Nantwich Canal Centre on 01270 625122. People can also just enjoy a leisurely stroll along the canal towpath or the Baker Way, which leads in its entirety some 13 miles or more into the city of Chester. There is also a junction with the Llangollen stretch of the canal on the outskirts of Nantwich.

Brine Swimming Pool
Wall Street, Nantwich CW5 5LS

The ancient brine stream, known as Old Biot, also supplies water to Nantwich's outdoor swimming pool. One of the last remaining of its kind in the country, it's open throughout May to September each year. For more details go to www.crewe-nantwich.gov.uk. There is also an indoor swimming pool at the same site and a fitness suite and cyber cafe.

Museum
Pillory Street, Nantwich CW5 5BQ

The Nantwich Museum in Pillory Street was opened in 80s and stands on the site of the former free library. It has a wealth of displays and exhibitions all about the town which range from copious amounts of information about Woodhey's Wilbraham family and change how to make Cheshire cheese. Currently there is an exhibition on the local canal system through the ages. For more details visit the museum's website at www.nantwichmuseum.org.uk. It can be found on Pillory Street, CW5 5BQ and is open from 10.30am - 4.30pm Monday to Saturday in summer - and Tuesday to Saturday from October to March. Admission is free.

Dagfields Antique Centre
Walgherton CW5 7LG

Over 150 antique dealers are stationed at this centre in Walgherton, south east of Nantwich. Open from 10.00am to 5.00pm seven days a week, people are sure to find a 'bargain' in their hunt for a decorative item for the home or a future investment piece. There is also a craft centre, cafe and animal village. To find out more go to www.dagfields.co.uk.

The Firs Pottery
Aston, Nantwich CW5 8DE

A first class range of crockery, kitchenware and household items can be found at Firs Pottery in the small village of Aston. But visitors cannot only just shop or browse at the items on display, they can also put their skills to the test and make them. A number of pottery day classes are held throughout the year. For more details, please go to the firm's website at www.firspottery.co.uk.

The Chase
Wettenhall, Nr Nantwich CW7 4DN

Opened in 2003, this antiques barn has a wide profusion of furniture, household items and artwork up for sale. There also modern arts and crafts on offer in addition to a farm shop which stocks local produce from the surrounding area. To enquire further, please ring 01270 528449.

Bridgemere Garden World
A51 south of Nantwich CW5 7QB

This garden centre stocks one of the most extensive ranges of plants and flowers for the home and garden, in all of Cheshire, and includes six acres of inspirational gardens. There is also a Hobbycraft superstore within the grounds in addition to a coffee shop, garden furniture, clothes, gifts and books and toys. See www.bridgemere.co.uk for more details.

Stapeley Water Gardens
Nr Nantwich CW5 7LS

Stapeley Water Gardens is so much more than just a garden centre which excels at plants and water features. Its Palms Tropical Oasis rivals the nearby Chester Zoo for the breadth and depth of its exotic animals and wildlife. Visitors should be amazed and enthralled by the tunnel of underwater life, black tip reef sharks, crocodiles and Tamarin monkeys, to name but a few (there are over 100 species in all). There is also a wide selection of fountains, plants and fish and other outdoor features and accessories. For more details go to www.stapleywg.com.

Cafes and Restaurants

While out and about in Nantwich, people might like to try out at some of the following cafes and restaurants:

Aroma Cafe Bar
7 Hospital Street, Nantwich CW5 5RH

This cafe, open 7 days a week, is ideal for those who want to surf the net while have a snack, and it's fitted with internet terminals and also has Wifi facilities. It also serves a delicious range of coffee, tea, cakes, fruit smoothies, and hot and cold light meals.

Le Cafe de Paris
Chapel Court, Hospital Street, Nantwich

This French-style cafe has an open terrace where people can watch the world go by while they stop for lunch, afternoon tea or a mid-morning snack. Renowned for its excellent French-style desserts and coffee.

Romazzino Ristorante e Pizzeria Italiana
12a Love Lane, Nantwich CW5 5BH www.romazzino.co.uk

For authentic Italian cuisine, Romazzino Ristorante has to be it. The pasta is all hand-made on site as are the delicious Italian-style desserts. It's open seven days a week for lunch and evening meals.

Harrison's Cafe Bar
1 High Street, Nantwich CW5 5R

Harrisons excels at sandwiches, light snacks and baguettes. It also has fully licensed bar and outside terrace.