Chester City Walls - Western Section

Watergate to Grosvenor Road

22. Watergate

The present arched Watergate was built in 1788 (designed by Joseph Turner). The medieval gate had earlier often been referred to simply as the 'West Gate'. The term Watergate reflects the fact that the gateway provided access to the river and port. In medieval times the river came up to the City Walls at this point, although by the 18^th century had retreated to the West. Until the rise of Liverpool in the 18^th century, Chester was the most important sea port in the North West of England. The Georgian and Victorian port was connected to the city through the Watergate via New Crane Street. Today this 'Old Port' area is undergoing substantial regeneration including the recent construction of a Riverside Promenade between the Old Port and the Groves.

23. Selected View: Westwards Over Roodee (Above 'Roman' Quay)

Standing at this spot you are looking over the one of the oldest race courses in Britain. This occupies an open space known as the 'Roodee'. Horse racing began in 1540 but the site has been, and still is, used for all sorts of public events.

In Roman times it was a tidal salt marsh becoming meadowland in the middle ages and gradually extending in area as the Dee silted.

A small stone stump can be seen protruding from the grass this was the base of a cross (or Rood), which marked the boundary between two parishes. The name Roodee is derived from 'Rood' for cross and 'Eye' for island or 'Eg' for Meadow.

Below this point is a substantial stone wall. It has been suggested that this was part of a Roman quay although its origins are uncertain

In the distance is Curzon Park perched on the top of the river cliff on the far bank of the Dee. This was developed as an exclusive suburb from the mid 1840s with the coming of the railways. The intention was to attract Liverpool merchants. However, the villas were subsequently occupied by mostly wealthy Chester families, including the Brown's who owned the fashionable Eastgate Street store.

Chester Walls South West Section

Grosvenor Road to Castle Drive/ Bridgegate

24. Selected View: South West Over Little Roodee (Above a  Model of the Grosvenor  Bridge)

The triangle of land here is known as the Little Roodee. It was once part of a larger Roodee but the construction of the Grosvenor Bridge, with its embankment connecting the bridge to the city, bisected it to form the present Roodee and Little Roodee. For much of the year it is a car park but in May it is the site of an annual funfair.

The Grosvenor Bridge had the widest single span stone arch (200 ft) in Europe when it was opened by the (then) Princess Victoria in 1832. It was designed by Thomas Harrison who did not see it completed as he died in 1829. Immediately beneath the Wall at this point is Harrison's architectural model of the bridge which the Civic Trust placed here in 1979. For a better view of the model you should walk down Castle Drive.

The Riverside Promenade follows the river along the edge of the Little Roodee and passes under the Grosvenor Bridge where it continues along the edge of the Roodee towards the railway and Old Port.

25.Castle

Chester Castle was built by the Normans around 1070. Walking along the Western Walls along Nun's Road its motte (a flat topped, conical mound of earth constructed to enhance the defensive position) is clearly visible. Originally the Castle was based on a wooden tower but was replaced by a stone structure in the 12^th century. It was the headquarters of the Earls of Chester. The Castle has been greatly modified - most notably by the architect Thomas Harrison who rebuilt the Castle including a new Shire Hall (now the law courts) between 1788 and 1822 in a largely neo-classical style. However, in the centre of the Castle is the medieval Agricola Tower with its fine vaulted chapel and which is open to the public.

26. County Hall

Construction of this building, which houses the County Council, began in the 1930s, halted in the early 1940s and was completed in 1957. It occupies the site of the former County gaol built by Thomas Harrison. The short section of Castle Drive in front of this building is the only true break in the circuit of walls - which were demolished in 1901 as part of the layout of Castle Drive.

27. Shipgate (site of)

An early medieval gate existed on this site and is believed to have led to a ferry (an alternative to using the Old Dee Bridge). The gateway still exists having been relocated and rebuilt in Grosvenor Park.

Chester City Walls - Southern Section

Bridgegate to Wishing Steps

28. Bridgegate

The present arched Bridgegate was built in 1782 (designed by Joseph Turner). Its name reflects the fact that it connects the city to the medieval (Old) Dee Bridge. The gate here was originally referred to as the 'South Gate'. It has also been known as 'Welshgate' since before the construction of the Grosvenor Bridge in 1832 the Old Dee Bridge was the lowest bridged crossing point on the river to North Wales. The former medieval gate (which guarded the entrance to the city from the bridge) took the form of a gothic arch fortified by two round towers. However, this was modified by the addition of a tall square tower (Tyrer's Tower) built as part of a water supply system for the city in 1600, although this was destroyed in the Civil War. An octagonal tower replaced this but was demolished prior to the building of the present gate.

29. Selected View: From Bridgegate view North (up Lower Bridge Street)

Looking up Lower Bridge Street you can see a mix of architectural styles. Of particular note is the Bear and Billet now a public house, which dates from 1664. It was the residence of the Earl of Shrewsbury whose heraldic device was a bear and stake (billet).

30. Selected View: From Bridgegate view South (across River)

From here you are looking at what was the site of the lowest bridged crossing of the River Dee for centuries until the opening of the Grosvenor Bridge.

The present Old Dee Bridge was built around 1387 and stands on the site of an earlier timber bridge and that of a Roman bridge. At one time the bridge had a gatehouse and drawbridge towards the far side which were demolished in 1781.

On the far bank is the village (now suburb) of Handbridge, home to the fishing community located in Greenway Street whose boats still lie in the river downstream of the bridge. The area below the weir (the Earl's then King's Pool) has been an important fishery since Norman times. In particular, before steps were built into the weir, fish would wait below it until a high tide allowed them to pass upstream.

The area in the vicinity of the bridge was once Chester's powerhouse. The weir originally built by the Normans in 1092 created a head of water which was used to turn waterwheels for mills on both sides of the river. Dee Mills (milling grain into flour) stood where the hydroelectric station building now stands. When opened in 1913 the hydroelectric station is believed to have made Chester the first British city to have such a power facility. The building has been a water extraction facility since 1951.

Across the river are some of the Roman quarries and in the park on the far downstream bank there is a Roman shrine dedicated to the goddess Minerva, the patron of the quarrymen.

This public park is known as Edgar's Field. Tradition has it that the Saxon King Edgar, who in 973 was rowed up the Dee by subject British princes, had a palace here (although this is unlikely).

In the park is a red sandstone outcrop with pale bands above the river bank. This displays classic cross bedding associated with its deposition in sand bars in a river within shifting channels flowing through a desert environment (almost 250 million years ago). Chester's location was then much nearer to the equator but has since moved north because of the geological process of Continental Drift.

31. Round Tower

This is the base of a medieval watch tower. The upper sections were removed in the 18^th century as part of the creation of a promenade along the Walls. It affords spectacular views along the river.

32. Selected View: From Round Tower across River

From this point there are stunning views of the weir and the Salmon Steps. These steps (best viewed at low water) were constructed to help salmon cross the weir to reach their spawning grounds (where they lay their eggs) in the headwaters of the Dee.

The River Dee is both a Site of Special Scientific Interest (SSSI) and a Special Area of Conservation (SAC). These designations are partly due to the river being a migration route for the Atlantic Salmon (Salmo salar) - as well as for its various habitats and other important species

The pink modernist buildings of 'Salmon Leap' on the far side of the river honour the association with this fish. These residential properties occupy the site of the former snuff (tobacco) mills and a water wheel lies in the former mill race which cuts through the weir next to the Handbridge bank.

You can take a pleasant detour to the other bank by descending the Walls at the Bridgegate, crossing the river via the Old Dee Bridge and returning along the Southern bank to cross again via the Queen's Park Suspension Footbridge (built 1923) - which will return you to The Groves.

33. Recorder's Steps

Built around 1720, these steps were built to allow access between the Walls and the Groves as the two key areas where it was fashionable to promenade. Today they remain an important route between the Walls and The Groves and therefore the attractions of this riverside location with its cafes, ice cream stalls, bandstand, boat trips and opportunities to feed the local ducks and swans.

Chester City Walls - Eastern Section

Wishing Steps to Newgate

34. Wishing Steps

The wishing steps were built in 1785 to join two levels of the Walls as part of the creation a walkway on which to promenade. Tradition has it that anyone who makes a wish at the foot of the steps and then runs up and down them without taking a breadth will have their wish come true. One version of the tale suggests this is a particular 'facility' for young maidens aspiring to wedlock.

35. Watch Tower

The base of a watch tower. This had been a sniper position during the Civil War. Consequently, it was a particular target for Parliamentary fire and there are still marks from their cannon balls on the Walls below the tower (best observed from the Roman Gardens below). The tower affords spectacular views across the river and over to St John's church (where the Parliamentary cannons were positioned in the churchyard).

36. Selected View: From Watch Tower across the Groves

Standing at this point you are looking over The Groves. During Roman and Saxon times this area was part of the river port. During the 18^th century it became a fashionable place (by the river and with an avenue of trees) to Promenade and was connected to the Walls walkway by Recorder's Steps. Today it remains a pleasure ground with cafes, ice cream stalls, a Victorian bandstand (still used), boating opportunities and a place to feed the ducks and swans.

The higher ground above The Groves is believed to have been the area of early Saxon settlement (wick). The Saxons may have preferred to live outside the Roman ruins at this time. With the founding of St John's Church - probably in the 7^th century - the area grew to become be an important ecclesiastical precinct especially after the arrival of the Normans. It was to this church that Edgar came after being rowed along the river by other British princes in 973 - an act that demonstrated his overlordship. St John's became Chester's first Cathedral in 1075 (until 1102) and remained an important ecclesiastical centre through the Middle Ages. For centuriies a bishop's palace was maintained near to St John's.  The Old Bishop's Palace, built in the 18^th century to replace a medieval equivalent, can still be seen. It is now a private residence.

During the Civil War the Parliamentary forces had a battery in St John's churchyard. This bombarded the South Eastern sections of the City Walls.

Below the Walls at this point are the Roman Gardens. The gardens contain Roman artefacts from over the city and include a reconstructed hypocaust (under foor heating system). These gardens can be accessed from steps and then a gateway in the Wall on Park Street, or by descending at Newgate then passing under it to enter the gardens at their Northern entrance on Little St John Street. They can also be accessed from The Groves. The gardens have not always been a tranquil retreat but were once the site of a clay pipe factory and a cock fighting pit.

37. Nine Houses

Six (once nine) small cottages built around 1650 using timber and sandstone. They are the only pre-19^th century almshouses in Chester.

38. Site of Civil War Breach in Wall

During the Civil War the Parliamentary forces successfully overcame the outworks created to protect the suburbs. They also built a bridge of boats to cross the river near the present Dee Lane. This supplied a gun emplacement in St John's churchyard from which the Parliamentarian's bombarded sections of the Eastern Wall. The largest breach was made in the Wall at this point. However, troops were prevented from storming it because of the actions of citizens who threw material into the breach including furniture and bedding. The breach is best seen from the Roman Gardens which can be accessed via Little St John Street or a gateway through the Wall from Park Street.

Chester City Walls - Eastern Section

Newgate to Eastgate

39. Newgate

Built in 1937-38 to a neo-gothic design. Its construction was part of a traffic improvement scheme that allowed traffic around the Southern side of the city centre. The gate affords excellent views Eastwards across the Roman Amphitheatre to St John's Church.

40. Wolfgate

The Wolfgate was also known as the 'Newgate' after the medieval gate was replaced in the 17^th century. It was rebuilt again in the 18^th century. There may have been a gate here since the Saxon period. It provided a route between the two important ecclesiastical centres of St John's (at one time a Cathedral) and St Werburgh's (from Norman times the Abbey).

41. Selected View: From Wall near Newgate (or from Newgate) across the Amphitheatre

The Wall near to the Newgate, and the Newgate itself, provide excellent vantage points to see the excavated remains of Chester's Roman Amphitheatre. Excavations have revealed that there were two amphitheatres, both constructed primarily in stone. The first was built around 80-100 AD and the second during the third century AD. The latter was the largest amphitheatre in Roman Britain.

Beyond the Amphitheatre is St John's Church. Although its external appearance is typically Victorian its interior remains largely Norman. The close proximity of this church to the Amphitheatre, and the unusual location of such a major church outside the City Walls, may be associated with early Christian martyrs those who were put to death in the Amphitheatre by the Roman authorities because of their faith.

Beyond the church is Grosvenor Park. A large public space, this land may once have been part of St John's religious lands. It was presented to the city by the Marquess of Westminster (head of the Grosvenor family) in 1867.

Across the road from the Amphitheatre is the Chester Visitor Centre. This was originally built as a late Victorian school but now houses a café, visitor information centre and contains displays on Chester.

You can take a detour to visit these sites and take refreshment at the visitor centre by descending the walls by steps on the Southern side of Newgate.

42. Roman Angle Tower

The Roman fortress had a tower at each corner. These angle towers provided wide views across the surrounding countryside. The foundations of the South East Angle Tower survive having been excavated in 1930 and now can be seen at the base of the Wall. This Tower was situated inside the curtain wall of the fort showing that the current Wall and that of the Roman period differ slightly at this point.

43. Thimbleby's Tower

A medieval watch tower also known as the Wolf Tower. It seems to have been of little use since medieval times except perhaps during the Civil War. The structure was given its current pitched roof in 1994.