Touring the Ironbridge Gorge: a short walk into realms of our industrial past

 

Revolutions have happened since time immemorial. France had one in 1789 and got rid of much of its aristocracy and upper classes. While Russia followed soon afterwards with its Bolshevik revolution in 1917.

 

Britain has indeed had uprisings and revolts since records and chroniclers began taking note of such skirmishes and events. But perhaps barring the Civil War, the one revolution that has had a global impact was that of the industrial kind.

 

And in a hitherto unknown rural county, the start of the industrial age began in earnest at the end of the 18th century.

 

Once an entirely rural county, Shropshire, or at least 6 square miles of it, were to become the epicentre of the new wave of industrial innovation and advancement, the like of which before had never been seen.

 

 

Now preserved as a World Heritage site, the Ironbridge Gorge was the first place ever in the world to have a bridge constructed entirely of iron.

 

Stone and wooden ones abounded around the globe. But using coke, not charcoal in the creation of iron, allowed structures to be built that had only ever been dreamed of before.

 

Coke, just to add not the fizzy drink, was coal-derived fuel that was created by heating coal in an oxygen free environment, to eliminate volatile compounds.

 

In turn, metal ores could be converted into solid iron products at greater purity levels and at faster and more productive rate - especially in the blast furnaces that were created to bring this about.

 

At what is now Ironbridge Gorge, 80 acres of land were transformed into a hive of industrial activity. Iron-making works, a tile producing factory, china ware makers and pipe producers all churned out their products to meet demand not just in Britain, but from the four corners of the world.

 

The abundance of highly valuable natural resources were pivotal in making this place the industrial powerhouse that it became.

 

Since the last Ice Age, a glacial lake west of here, transformed the area in to its gorge-like topography, and with that it eroded and uncovered vast seams of coal, iron ore, limestone and clay.

 

And several bridges over time were built to ford the mighty River Severn that had also ploughed a furrow through this region since the pre-historic era.

 

 

The jewel in the crown of this set of bridges came to be the Ironbridge its very self. Constructed entirely of cast iron, it is believed to be the first ever solid iron bridge structure ever created in the world.

 

Prior to this, six ferry services would ferry people and goods across the river, at where it now stands, but this proved to be not without its problems.

 

Industry and people were at the mercy of the river, which was often either too shallow in summer to be crossed, or too high and flood-like in winter to be  safely traversed.

 

So local businessmen, including Abraham Darby III and an 'iron mad' John Wilkinson, pooled their ideas and resources and decided to do away with convention, and build a bridge entirely out of iron.

 

Using around 384 tonnes of iron in all, it was said to have taken three months to cast all the component parts at furnaces within the immediate locale.

 

One of the said furnaces was mooted to have been a mere 500 yards away from the bridge site itself, and this is where our planned walk begins.

 

The walk, which should last about 45 minutes,  takes in the key areas around the bridge and offers an interesting glimpse of the riverbank and sights in its  surrounds.

 

 

The remains of the Bedlam blast furnaces were and still are a truly amazing labyrinth of chambers, pipes and air ducts that were obviously created to meet the needs of this leviathan project, and others of an industrial scale.

 

Fortunately, there is free parking in front of it, which is a blessing, because most other places require a small, or not so small, fee or tariff. The furnaces can be found about a 5 minute drive past the Ironbridge itself.

 

Surprisingly, they were only recently exacavated and could be said to act as proud testimony to this area's industrial past. Originally situated in Coalbrookdale, it's only within modern times, that this area has collectively been renamed Ironbridge.

 

Leaving the car park, people need to follow the narrow footpath that goes over and above the furnaces.

 

You have a wonderful, aerial view of all its different chambers and sections. As it's still standing, the old adage: 'they don't make things like they used to' was never truer. It was obviously built to last. 

 

A small section of park should then come into view and a wide walkway should be traversed until you meet a cluster of buildings near the Ironbridge its very self.

 

However, just to be a little bit different, people should cross over the road, and take the riverside path (the Severn Way) to see the bridge in all its resplendent glory.

 

 

And as you go down some wide steps and pass some pretty riverside cottages, you can glimpse the 100ft high bridge and all of its arched sections, which were said to have taken two years to fully construct from 1777 to 1779.

 

It was so records state, slotted together like a timber-framed construction and was formally open for business on New Year's Day 1781.

 

It passed the ultimate test some 15 years later, when it survived the severe beating of a great flood in 1795. This caused the earlier, and further upstream Buildwas Bridge (built in medieval times) to be irreparably damaged, but the Ironbridge held fast, despite the water level rising some 20 ft or more.

 

Interestingly, this writer believed, quite wrongly, that famous civil engineer, Thomas Telford, was central to the whole of the building of the Ironbridge. But he did have associations with this area, and was commissioned to replace the Buildwas Bridge after 1795. His structure, however, proved unable to withstand the flood waters of the River Severn, and it has had to be rebuilt two times since.

 

However, it was Abraham Darby III who was one of the most crucial members of the actual Ironbridge construction project team, the bridge itself being located a few miles upstream from its Buildwas neighbour. (Darby's grandfather, also Abraham, had settled in the area in the early 18th century and was the entrepreneur that had first used coke in the production of iron).

 

The design brief for the bridge's development, moreover, was awarded to a Thomas Farnolls Pritchard, who had an architectural practice in Shrewsbury.

He was famous for restoring grand houses and for designing stone and timber bridges.

 

He cleverly used techniques that had only previously been the preserve of timber style fabrications, and with a budget of £6,000, he used dovetails, wedges, mortise and tennons, which is thought to have helped the bridge withstand floodlike conditions. It's worth noting that in modern day money, the bridge's cost would equate to some £1.5 million.

 

Indeed, as you walk the area today, you can only admire the magnificent and superlative lattice framework of iron as it towers above you across the Severn from the riverside.

 

Pictures always seem to show the gorge and bridge, however, as being much vaster and wider than it actually is.  However, it still was a major accomplisment for the time, and has had experts ever since puzzled as to how the exact bridge was pieced and fastened together.

 

A recent history programme on television surmised that lots of timber scaffolding and frameworks were set up to help build up the bridge until it was in its present form.

 

Traffic today, is not allowed to traverse it, but initially this was its primary concern as well as a mission to allow the free movement of people from one side of the Severn to the other.

 

However, the free part was anything but. It did unfortunately prove too costly for many local labourers, with wages being kept low, and some could not afford the halfpenny crossing toll that was required.

 

 

It's certainly free to cross the bridge itself today, which is a haven for day-trippers and tourists alike. At its centre, a fantastic view of the Severn can be seen from both sides.

 

Again this river was crucial to the gorge's success, because it allowed fast and efficient transportation for the time, of goods to the south western port of Bristol.

 

But in its prime, it was supposedly a smoky and smoggy area as factory smoke billowed throughout the gorge, and furnace flames were a common and all too prevalent sight.

 

This 'birthplace of industry', as it is often called, has now been reclaimed by nature itself. Vast swathes of pleasant greenery adorn the valley sides. While buildings, many with links back to the 18th century if not even earlier, peek out behind the foliage. Half-hidden, but a constant reminder of this area's magnificent hey-day, they offer a well preserved slice of britannic history, with only cars and modern dress seeming a tad out of place.

 

Many visitors want to preserve memories of their day here in photographic form. And it was quite interesting on the day this walk was taken to see three spaniels reluctant to pose for the camera at their owners' diktat.

 

The flow across the bridge was held up for quite a few minutes until the dogs finally and cautiously did as they were bid.

 

Once at the other side, people can take time out to buy souvenirs or more information about the area from the erstwhile tollhouse.

 

But to continue the walk, people should take a turn to the left and follow the other side of the river bank, along the route of the former Severn Valley Railway.

 

 

Now dedicated as a leisure route for walkers and cyclists and renamed the Severn Valley way, it was initially the site of a wooden railway that carried coal and goods back and forth along the river bank. Apparently the second wooden railway in all of Britain, it saw goods transported back and forth from here from 1600 onwards. It was developed further, but went the way of so many of Britain's minor railway routes in 1963 when Dr Beeching axed practically all of the country's many small and provincial lines.

 

But today, the wide and level trackway, gives people a quiet and woodland lined route along the banks of the River Severn.

 

In Ironbridge's industrial prime, people could have expected to see much boat traffic, mainly in the form of 70ft long barges or trows. This was the transportation of choice for many merchants and producers, who used them to take their wares to Bristol and beyond.

 

The coming of a steam railway soon put paid to that, but again new modern inventions of any age soon become obsolete, and it too was soon consigned to the past. It did initially, however, run from Jackfield where there were tile factories, kilns and iron works, brick factory and a tar factory right through to the nearby industrial town of Bridgnorth.

 

You cannot see the river that closely as you ramble onwards, because of all the verdant foilage and woodland masks your view; but as you continue you soon become parallel to the Bedlam Furnaces, which were created in 1757, and are said to be among the first blast furnaces ever created in the world.

 

A few keen walkers can usually be spied on this route as you walk along its more serene setting. Then you soon approach the modern face of the Severn Valley Way in the form of the Jackfield Bridge or New Bridge.

 

This too over the course of time has been unable to withstand the erosion and corroding force of the river.

 

It was built as a free bridge in 1908 out of poured, reinforced concrete. No tolls or charges were levied at all to ensure people could move effectively and really freely from one side of the river to the other.

 

But by 1937 the force of the river had made the bridge become so unstable, that it then went just under 50 years of constant repairs, until it was decided that a new bridge just had to be built.

 

From 1986 onwards, a bailey bridge was set up to take traffic and people across the Severn, while a long period of introspection and consultation followed.

 

It wasn't until some seven years later that the local authority allowed the Free Bridge to be demolished and designers, Gifford and Partners and architects, the Percy Thomas Partnership came up with a new, futuristic blueprint.

 

 

Today, the New Bridge's modern, startling silver-like steel presence seems somewhat out of place in this place of historic beauty and serenity.

 

However, its A pylon and cable-stayed structure has withstood the test of time and all the battering that the river and elements could give it.

 

It took 9 months to complete and its various components were prefabricated in Weatherby in Yorkshire. And a 200 tonne crane was said to have used to hoist its central tower into place.

 

It was opened on 18 October 1994 when a 13.9 tonne steam roller was sent across it as a load test, and it was subsequently dubbed as an 'overwhelming success' by the Royal Fine Art Commission - an opinion that is perhaps somewhat divisive.

 

From here you can walk along the river with iron railings to your left, and you will soon, after a few hundred yards, arrive back at the Bedlam Furnaces - interestingly they have nothing to do with the infamous asylum of a similar name, which was actually based in London.

 

Then people can either wend their way back to the Ironbridge and some of the cafes nearby, or perhaps then take in one or two of the museums that fill out the expansive 80 acres that make up remarkable Ironbridge.

 

Take in the slideshow of Iron Bridge and the Gorge

 

For more details about the museums, please see below, or go to the following website www.ironbridge.org.uk:

 

IRONBRIDGE GORGE MUSEUMS:

 

Blists Hill Victorian Town, TF7 5DU

Blists Hill is an ambitious recreation of an entire Victorian town. The 52 acre site contains period shops such as a grocer, chemist and draper. All transactions are carried out in old fashioned money and re-enactors give the site an authentic feel by dressing in clothes of reminiscent of the time.

 

Coalport China Museum, TF8 7HT

This site produced a variety of china ware right up until 1926. Today however its museum acts as a tribute to the outstanding contribution Coalport China made to this area.

 

Tar Tunnel,TF8 7HT

In 1787, miners at Ironbridge hit the jackpot, and struck a spring of natural bitumen. It still oozes this black treacle like substance today, and visitors can walk the 100 yard length of the tar tunnel.

 

Coalbrookdale Museum of Iron, TF8 7DQ

This site celebrates the achievements of the iron industry in this area and houses a variety of household iron wares, in addition to fine art castings such as statues, plaques and fire surrounds.

 

Darby Houses, TF8 7DQ

The Darby family resided predominantly in Rosehill House and Dale House within the immediate locale. Visitors can have a chance to dress in quaker-style costumes and see mementoes and personal effects that belonged to generations of the Darbys.

 

Enginuity, TF8 7DQ

As this museum's name suggests, it is devoted to all things to do with inventions. However, it looks solely towards the future, and has displays of robots and other cutting edge, scientific exhibits.

 

Museum of the Gorge, TF8 7NH

At the museum of the Gorge, visitors can see the history of Ironbridge charted and analysed on film, as well as through the various inventive and colourful displays.

 

Jackfield Tile Museum, TF8 7LJ

Britain was once at the centre of a world empire, and likewise, the Jackfield Tile factory, now museum, was once at the centre of the tile universe. Its tiles supposedly graced bathrooms and kitchens and shops and public utilities,not just in Britain but across the world. There are room upon room of displays where the tiles are arranged in typical settings such as a pub, tube station or a grocers.

 

Broseley Pipeworks, TF12 5LX

The abundance of clay locally, provided the perfect raw material for clay pipes, which were de rigeur throughout much of the 18th century and a while later. Broseley was a signficant world player in this market and churned out clay pipes in their millions at this site. This museum showcases life as it would have been during its hey-day.

 

 

Directions:

From Woodhey Hall, follow the A49 to Whitchurch. Then after this join the A41 at Prees Heath. Then take this A road to Ternhill, where you should turn off and join the A53 towards Shrewsbury, then after several miles join the A442 towards Wellington. After Wellington bypass Telford on the A5223 until you reach the A4169 and the outer edges of Ironbridge.